You work a full time job and can only work on your car in your spare time. Your garage is your workshop and your budget is limited. I know that feeling. Reddit snobs swear the only way to paint a car is to use a spray guns. Having used rattle cans before on my 2003 Celica with great results, I wanted to see if a spray gun was worth the hype.
Initial Investment: Spray Gun Setup
Here’s what you need for a basic setup:
- Spray Gun – I got a cheap one for $26. Full disclosure, the people claiming the 1.4 nozzle comes attached, really, really, tightly attached are not lying.
- Air Compressor – Luckily I already had one of these. If you don’t already have one, you need something that can push out at least 8 CFM @ 90. Unfortunate, that’ll set you back at least $350.
- Primer – Just buy whatever you want. We’re not pros, we just want something to look decent.
- Base Coat – Same as above. I went with $17 Rust-Oleum white gloss and it’s fine. A quart will cover about 2.5 to 3 panels.
- Clear – This matters a little more. If you want something that’ll last 5+ years, buy some 2K stuff. I’m cheap so I went with this $17 Rust-Oleum gloss clear. This will last maybe 2 years.
- Paint Thinner – Mineral spirits for $15 is probably the best way to thin your paint. It doesn’t smell as much as traditional paint thinner.
So the total cost, not counting safety gear is about $442. At least the gun and compressor are one-time expenses.
Prep Work: So Much Hassel
Once you finish sanding and masking, you think you can just start loading paint and spraying? You thought wrong! First, you have to thin the paint; if it’s too thick, you’re spraying bumpy chunks of paint. Then you have to calibrate the gun. Mess up the pressure or flow? You’re now wasting paint shooting at cardboard to get the “perfect spray.” Not to mention, if you have to refill the canister mid-job, you’ll probably have to recalibrate the gun.
Actually Painting
Spraying with a gun is way easier and smoother than a rattle can. The rule of thumb is to overlap your spraying by 75% and work your way through the panel. That being said, the gun is extremely sensitive to even a slight breeze. Don’t spray in the wind. Another problem is if you have to work a tough angle or respray a small spot, it’s a lot harder than using a spray can where you can just point and click.
Cleaning Up: The Worst Part, By Far
You’ve finished painting, it’s dark outside, and you’re ready to go inside and watch the Warriors blow a double-digit lead, as is tradition. Wait, you still have to clean up.
Spray guns have way more overspray than cans, so you might have to do quite a bit of scrubbing. Then, you have to use mineral spirits to clean every part of the gun. Don’t stop there—this is oil-based paint, so you can’t just toss it in the grass or pour it down the sink. You have to drop it off at a hazmat site. I challenge anyone to paint using an oil-based paint and not make a mess.
Final Verdict: Not Worth It
After all that hassle, I still got orange peel and pooling. Yes, I know all of this is within my control and it is my fault. I should have more patience, but that’s not one of my strong traits. Everyone should try to experience this once to decide if using a spray gun is for them. As for me, I’m sticking with rattle cans.
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